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Refinance Savings Calculator for Rapid City, SD

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Written by Jere Salmisto·Reviewed by CalcFi Editorial·Methodology
TL;DR

Housing: $369,930 median home, $1,352/mo/mo median rent, PITI ~$2,694/mo (10% down, 6.30% PMMS). Income: $71,985 median household; rent burden 22.5% (within 30% guideline). Taxes: 1.20% effective property tax rate → ~$4,439 annual bill. Cost of living: BEA RPP index 93 (national baseline = 100); estimated annual commute cost ~$2,961. Context: unemployment 2.8%; job market led by South Dakota state industries.

Source: Zillow ZHVI/ZORI · Census ACS · Tax Foundation, 2025–2026

📍 Customized for Rapid City, South Dakota

With Rapid City's median home valued at $369,930 and a 1.20% property tax rate, refinancing could save you hundreds per month depending on your current rate. Calculate your break-even point and total savings for a Rapid City refinance.

Median Home
$370k
Median Rent
$1,352/mo
Median Income
$72k/yr
Property Tax
1.20%
Cost of Living
93 / 100 avg

✓ Calculator below is pre-filled with Rapid City local data

Data as of Apr 2026 · Sources: Zillow, Census ACS, Tax Foundation, Freddie Mac

★Reality Score— See how your Rapid City numbers actually stack up in 60 seconds.See my full picture →
3-minute readout across rent, debt, and savings — not a credit pull.

South Dakota Financial Snapshot (2026) — Refinance Savings Calculator

Home value, monthly carrying cost, property tax, and insurance are the four levers for the refinance savings calculator in South Dakota. Every row cites a primary public dataset. Numbers reflect the most recent vintage available; refresh cadence is documented in the methodology.

MetricSouth DakotaSource
Property tax effective rate1.24%[1][1]
Annual property tax (median home)$3,410[2][2]
Avg homeowners insurance$3,160/yr[3][3]
Cost-of-living index (BEA RPP)88.1 (US = 100)[4][4]
Median home value (ZHVI)$275,000[5][5]
Avg monthly PITI (est.)$2,079/mo[6][6]

How the Refinance Savings Calculator Math Works Under South Dakota Law

Every real-estate number on this page runs through the same core identity: the monthly principal-and-interest payment on a fully amortizing fixed-rate loan is M = P · r / (1 − (1+r)^(−n)), where P is the loan principal, r is the monthly rate (annual rate / 12), and n is the term in months. For a typical South Dakota buyer in 2026, P starts from an $275,000 median home value (Zillow ZHVI)[1], minus a standard 20% down payment.

On top of P&I the calculator adds the two South Dakota-specific carrying costs: property tax at the state effective rate of 1.24%[2] and homeowners insurance at roughly $3,160/year (NAIC state average)[3]. The Freddie Mac PMMS national average 30-year fixed rate (6.30% (Freddie Mac PMMS · week of May 14, 2026))[4] drives the payment curve — South Dakota rate quotes can move a few basis points around that number depending on lender, loan size, and credit band.

Calc-specific note: Break-even months = closing ÷ monthly savings. If you plan to stay past that point, refi wins.

Local context: Rapid City, SD

Housing economics in Rapid City, SD. The median home value runs 3.3% above the U.S. baseline for Rapid City, SD is $369,930 per Zillow's home-value index. Median rent runs $1,352 a month per Zillow ZORI, cheaper than the national $1,850 baseline. Effective property tax sits at 1.20% of assessed value, meaningfully higher than the 0.99% national average tracked by the Tax Foundation. Lenders in Rapid City, SD have quoted 6.30% on the 30-year fixed product over the trailing four-week window per Freddie Mac PMMS — the prevailing posted rate before any borrower-specific lock-ins.

Income and tax climate. South Dakota's top marginal state income tax bracket lands at 0.00% — one of nine states that levies no broad-based income tax, shifting the revenue burden onto sales, property, and severance levies. BEA's Regional Price Parity scores Rapid City, SD at 93.0 (national = 100), meaning a dollar in Rapid City, SD buys 108¢ — more goods and services than the same dollar nationally.

How Rapid City, SD's numbers shape the calculator. The mortgage payment, refinance, PMI, and home-affordability calculators all run on three local inputs that swing the answer materially: the prevailing 30-year fixed rate, the effective property tax rate as a share of home value, and the homeowners-insurance premium that the average policyholder is paying for the same coverage envelope. Rapid City, SD-specific values for each of those are pre-loaded above so the calculator's default scenario reflects what an actual buyer would see at closing, not a national average that smooths over the differences. Override any field to test a different scenario; the math reruns instantly in your browser without sending the inputs anywhere.

Local context as of 2026-05-31. Live data sources are listed in the Sources section below; each metric carries its own retrieval date.

Rapid City versus the U.S. baseline

How does Rapid City, SD stack up against the national average on the metrics that drive the calculators on this page? The table below pairs the Rapid City, SD-specific reading against the U.S. baseline so you can see at a glance whether your local scenario runs above or below typical. Three to five percentage points of difference on most of these inputs translates into meaningful changes in calculator output — for example, a 50-basis-point difference in mortgage rate moves the monthly payment on a $400,000 30-year loan by roughly $130.

MetricRapid City, SDU.S. baselineDifference
Median home value[zillow]$369,930$358,0003.3%
Median monthly rent[zillow]$1,352$1,850-26.9%
Property tax (effective)[tax-foundation]1.20%0.99%21.2%
State top marginal income tax[tax-foundation]None~4.08% (volume-weighted)−4.08 pp
State cost-of-living index[bea-rpp]93.0100.0-7.0 pts

How to use the Refinance Savings Calculator

Walk through using the Refinance Savings Calculator with Rapid City, SD-specific defaults pre-loaded from primary sources.

  1. Enter your Rapid City numbersFill in the refinance savings inputs. Defaults reflect Rapid City, SD 2026: median home $369,930, median rent $1,352/mo, 1.20% effective property tax.
  2. Apply the local 2026 inputsThe median home value in Rapid City is $369,930 (Zillow ZHVI), with median monthly rent running $1,352/mo.
  3. Compare against Rapid City contextMonthly PITI on the $369,930 median home in Rapid City is ~$2,694/mo — vs a $1,352/mo median rent.

How South Dakota Compares to Neighboring States

Moving one state over changes the refinance savings numbers. Compare median home value (Zillow ZHVI), top marginal income tax rate, effective property tax rate, and the BEA all-items Regional Price Parity across South Dakota and its border states.

StateMedian homeTop inc taxProp tax rateRPP (US=100)
South Dakota (this page)$275,000None1.24%88.1
compare to Iowa$215,0003.80%1.50%88.8
compare to Minnesota$335,0009.85%1.12%98.3
check Montana$460,0005.90%0.83%91.0
Nebraska side-by-side$265,0005.20%1.73%90.3

Sources: Zillow ZHVI[1], state Departments of Revenue / Tax Foundation[2], Tax Foundation property taxes[3], BEA Regional Price Parities[4].

What Changes Your Result in South Dakota

  • Down payment size:South Dakota's typical down payment is 10.0%according to NAR survey data. Every 5% shift changes the monthly P&I by roughly 5–6% of the headline payment.
  • First-time buyer programs:South Dakota runs state-level first-time buyer programs (DPA, MCC) that can cut effective down payment costs by $5,000–$15,000 for qualifying buyers. See programs block below.
  • County-level property tax variance:The state effective rate shown in the snapshot is a statewide weighted average. Within South Dakota, county rates can swing ±30% around the median, especially in border counties with differing school-district mill levies.

Related Calculations for South Dakota

These calculators share inputs with the refinance savings formula, so pair them to pressure-test your answer from multiple angles.

  • South Dakota's mortgage payment rules — refinancing changes the payment you calculated.
  • heloc by South Dakota — cash-out refi vs HELOC is the same decision.

How Rapid City Compares to the National Average

Understanding how Rapid City stacks up helps you calibrate your financial planning.

MetricRapid City, SDUS AverageDifference
Median Home Price$369,930$420,800-12.1%
Median Monthly Rent$1,352$1,713-21.1%
Median Household Income$71,985$74,580-3.5%
Property Tax Rate1.20%1.10%+9.1%
Cost of Living Index93100-7.0%

Sources: U.S. Census Bureau, BLS, Zillow, NAR (2024–2025). Green = favorable for residents; red = less favorable.

Rapid City Financial Snapshot

Population (Metro)
150,000
Unemployment
2.8%
Avg Commute
17 min
Median Age
37.2
Price-to-Rent Ratio
22.8x
Annual Property Tax
$4,439
← Refinance Savings Calculator (all states)← Refinance Savings Calculator for South Dakota

More Financial Calculators for Rapid City, SD

Mortgage Payment CalculatorMortgage Affordability CalculatorHome Insurance EstimatorCapital Gains Tax CalculatorTax Bracket CalculatorProperty Tax CalculatorCost of Living ComparisonRent vs Buy Calculator

Refinance Savings Calculator in Other South Dakota Cities

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Frequently Asked Questions — Rapid City

Can median-income households afford the median home in Rapid City?
With a ~$2,694 monthly PITI and $71,985 median income, housing would consume ~44.9% of gross annual income. Qualifying under the 28% DTI rule requires ~$115,457 in annual income. Educational reference only.
Is it better to rent or buy in Rapid City?
Rapid City's price-to-rent ratio (22.8x) tilts toward renting — above 20x, buying is generally expensive relative to renting.
What is the annual property tax bill on the median home in Rapid City?
Approximately $4,439/yr at the 1.20% effective rate on the $369,930 median home. The national average effective rate is 1.07%.
What share of median income goes to rent in Rapid City?
The $1,352/mo median rent represents 22.5% of the $71,985 median household income. The recommended housing cost threshold is 30%; Rapid City falls within that guideline. Educational reference only.
How much does commuting cost in Rapid City?
Average commute time in Rapid City is 17 minutes per ACS. Estimated annual commute cost runs about $2,961 — a cost frequently overlooked when calculating true household affordability. Educational reference only.
How does the cost of living in Rapid City compare to the national average?
Rapid City's BEA RPP index is 93, 7% below the national baseline of 100. For a household earning the national median income of $77,540, this translates to ~$5,428/yr in purchasing power difference. Educational reference only.
What is the median home price in Rapid City, SD?
The median home price in Rapid City is $369,930 as of 2025–2026.
What is the average rent in Rapid City?
The median monthly rent in Rapid City, SD is $1,352.
Where does Rapid City data on this page come from?
Rapid City numbers are pulled from Zillow ZHVI/ZORI (home values, rent), the U.S. Census Bureau ACS (income, demographics), and Tax Foundation (property tax). Each value is timestamped on the page.
How often is the Rapid City refinance savings updated?
Source feeds (Zillow, Freddie Mac PMMS, Census ACS) are refreshed on their native cadence — hourly for mortgage rates, monthly for ZHVI/ZORI, annually for ACS. Page caches revalidate every 24 hours via Next.js ISR.
Does the refinance savings replace professional advice?
No. This calculator gives educational estimates using public Rapid City data and standard formulas. It is not personalized tax, legal, or investment advice. Consult a licensed professional for decisions with material consequences.
How we compute this — methodology

The Rapid City page uses local median home price ($369,930), median rent ($1,352/mo), and property tax rate (1.20%) alongside the calculator's client-side formula. Calculations run in your browser — no inputs are sent to a server.

Refresh cadence:home price (Zillow ZHVI) and rent (Zillow ZORI) are reviewed monthly when the source publishes. Property tax and cost-of-living figures refresh annually. The page's dateModified reflects the most recent retrievedAt across every sourced value rendered above.

Known limits: ZIP-level variance within Rapid City can be substantial — the figures shown are city-wide medians. For a precise property tax quote, consult your county assessor.

Sources

  1. Zillow Research — ZHVI (Zillow Home Value Index) + ZORI (Zillow Observed Rent Index), city-level. zillow.com/research/data. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  2. U.S. Census Bureau — American Community Survey (ACS) 5-year estimates for median household income and population. census.gov/programs-surveys/acs.
  3. CalcFi state financial context — tips + first-time homebuyer programs compiled from each state's Housing Finance Authority (HFA) public pages. See src/data/state-financial-context.ts.
  4. Tax Foundation — state property tax effective rates and state/local sales tax rates. taxfoundation.org.
  5. Freddie Mac Primary Mortgage Market Survey (PMMS) — weekly national mortgage rate averages used by mortgage-related calculators. freddiemac.com/pmms.
  6. Freddie Mac Primary Mortgage Market Survey (PMMS) — weekly national mortgage rates — www.freddiemac.com/pmms. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  7. NAIC Dwelling Fire, Homeowners Owners, and Homeowners Tenants Insurance Report — content.naic.org/article/homeowners-insurance-report. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  8. HUD Fair Market Rents — 50th-percentile 2-bedroom FY — www.huduser.gov/portal/datasets/fmr.html. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  9. State Departments of Revenue — official bracket + deduction publications (one primary URL per state; linked in the brackets table below) — taxfoundation.org/data/all/state/state-income-tax-rates. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  10. Bureau of Economic Analysis — Regional Price Parities by State — www.bea.gov/data/prices-inflation/regional-price-parities-state-and-metro-area. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  11. U.S. Department of Labor — State Minimum Wage Laws — www.dol.gov/agencies/whd/minimum-wage/state. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  12. FRED (Federal Reserve Economic Data) — real median household income, unemployment, HPI, LFPR per state — fred.stlouisfed.org. Retrieved 2026-04-19.
  13. BLS Occupational Employment and Wage Statistics (OEWS) — state-level occupational wages — www.bls.gov/oes. Retrieved 2026-04-19.

Spot an error? Email hello@calcfi.app with the URL and the correct figure.

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  • Mortgage Payment
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  • Down Payment Savings

National reference: Refinance Savings Calculator

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HomeMortgage & Real EstateRefinance Calculator — Is It Worth Refinancing Your Mortgage?

Refinance Calculator — Is It Worth Refinancing Your Mortgage?

Calculate monthly savings, break-even point, and total interest saved from refinancing.

Auto-updated May 30, 2026 · Verified daily against IRS, Fed & Treasury sources

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Refinance Calculator — Is It Worth Refinancing Your Mortgage?

Enter your numbers below

7.5%
212
6.36%
212
25yrs
530
30yrs
1030

Assumptions· 2026

  • ·Closing cost breakeven: months to recoup = total closing costs ÷ monthly payment savings
  • ·Assumes 60-day close from application; new rate locked at entry date
  • ·Savings computed on remaining principal and term of existing loan
  • ·Break-even shown in months; net savings projected through entered time horizon
When this is wrong
  • ·Rate lock expiration risk — rates can move between application and close
  • ·Appraisal surprises: low appraisal can change LTV, rate, or kill deal
  • ·Cash-out refi tax treatment of debt proceeds
  • ·Recasting after lump-sum payment (separate from refinancing)
Assumptions· 2026▾
  • ·Closing cost breakeven: months to recoup = total closing costs ÷ monthly payment savings
  • ·Assumes 60-day close from application; new rate locked at entry date
  • ·Savings computed on remaining principal and term of existing loan
  • ·Break-even shown in months; net savings projected through entered time horizon
When this is wrong
  • ·Rate lock expiration risk — rates can move between application and close
  • ·Appraisal surprises: low appraisal can change LTV, rate, or kill deal
  • ·Cash-out refi tax treatment of debt proceeds
  • ·Recasting after lump-sum payment (separate from refinancing)
Example: From 7.5% to 6.5%, 3 years in▾

Carlos, 38, electrician in Tampa, FL, bought his home in 2022 at $335,000 with a 7.5% 30-yr mortgage. He's 3 years in; balance is $318,000. Rates have dropped to 6.5%. A local lender offers a no-cash-out refi with $6,200 in closing costs.

  • Current loan balance: $318,000
  • Current rate / payment: 7.5% / $2,341/mo (P&I)
  • New rate: 6.5%
  • New term: 30 years (restarts clock)
  • New payment: $2,011/mo
  • Monthly savings: $330
  • Closing costs: $6,200
Break-even point
18.8 months (~19 months)

Takeaway: Carlos recoups the $6,200 closing costs in under 2 years. If he stays 5 more years he nets ~$13,600 in savings. Pitfall: resetting to a new 30-year term means he pays interest longer. A 20-year refi instead of 30 raises payments slightly but saves ~$88k in lifetime interest. Staying in the area long-term makes refinancing compelling.

When this calculator is wrong▾
  • Break-even ignores opportunity cost of closing costs

    The standard break-even divides closing costs by monthly savings. A $6,000 closing cost saving $200/month breaks even in 30 months. But $6,000 invested at 7%/yr returns $11,786 in 10 years — the opportunity cost of paying closing costs out of pocket is $5,786 in foregone investment growth.

  • Restarting amortization clock on a seasoned loan

    Refinancing a 30-year loan you have held for 7 years into a new 30-year loan restarts interest-front-loading. On a $350k original loan at 6% (now $315k balance), refi to 5.5% over 30 years saves $130/month but costs $40,000 more in total interest vs. simply continuing the original loan to payoff.

    Mortgage Payoff Calculator
  • Cash-out refinance fundamentally changes the math

    A cash-out refi draws equity — increasing the loan balance, not just resetting the rate. Replacing a $300k balance with a $380k loan to extract $80k of equity is not a pure rate-save event. Total interest cost increases by $50,000–$80,000 depending on rate differential and term.

  • PMI re-entry on cash-out above 80% LTV

    If a cash-out refi pushes LTV above 80%, PMI re-enters the equation — often $150–$300/month — offsetting rate savings. A homeowner with $420k home and $320k balance (76% LTV) who cashes out to $360k (86% LTV) triggers PMI that can take 4+ years to burn off.

    PMI Removal Calculator
  • ARM-to-fixed adds rate-insurance value not captured in break-even

    Refinancing from a 5/1 ARM to a fixed rate eliminates future rate-reset exposure. If the ARM would have reset 2% higher in year 6, the fixed refi saves $550/month for 25 years — far exceeding the standard break-even estimate, which only compares current payments.

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Your Results

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Monthly Savings
$325/mopositivepositive trend
Current Payment
$2,069/mo
New Payment
$1,744/mo
Break-Even
19 months

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Deep-dive articles

⚡ Key Takeaways

  • Break-even point for refinancing is calculated as: Closing Costs ÷ Monthly Savings = months to recover costs. If closing costs are $5,000 and monthly savings are $250, break-even is 20 months
  • Only refinance if you plan to stay in the home 25%+ longer than break-even point. If break-even is 20 months and you plan to sell in 2 years, you'll come out slightly ahead; if you plan to stay 5+ years, refinancing is almost certainly profitable
  • A 0.5% interest rate reduction saves approximately $100/month per $100,000 borrowed; a 1% reduction saves approximately $200/month per $100,000 borrowed
  • Closing costs typically range 2-6% of loan amount ($3,000-$12,000 on a $300,000 mortgage). Always ask for itemized closing cost estimates from 3+ lenders before committing
  • The most common mistake is focusing on monthly payment savings without considering closing costs; refis that save $100/month but cost $8,000 take 80 months (6.7 years!) to break even

Understanding Mortgage Refinancing: What Actually Happens

A mortgage refinance is essentially paying off your existing loan with a new loan. It's not magic—you're not reducing principal, you're replacing one debt with another. But if you can get a lower interest rate, the new loan costs less over time.

When you refinance:

1. New lender pays off your old loan: You no longer owe the original lender
2. You take out a new loan: From the new lender for the outstanding balance
3. You pay closing costs: These are the fees, and they range from $3,000-$12,000 typically
4. You get a new payment and term: If the rate is lower, the payment should be lower (or you can shorten the term)

The key question: Do the long-term savings from a lower rate exceed the upfront closing costs?

The Break-Even Calculation: Your Most Important Number

Break-even is the month where your cumulative savings equal the closing costs you paid. After this point, you profit from the refi.

Simple Formula:
Break-Even Months = Closing Costs ÷ Monthly Savings

Detailed Example:

Current loan: $300,000 at 7.5%, 20 years remaining
Current payment: $2,170/month

Refi offer: $300,000 at 6.2%, 20 years
New payment: $1,960/month
Monthly savings: $210

Closing costs: $5,400

Break-even: $5,400 ÷ $210 = 25.7 months (about 2.1 years)

The Decision Framework:

• Break-even < 1 year: Refi immediately. Rare, but happens in strong rate-drop markets
• Break-even 1-3 years: Refi if you plan to stay 5+ years. Good risk/reward
• Break-even 3-5 years: Refi only if you're certain you'll stay that long. Higher risk
• Break-even > 5 years: Usually not worth it unless rates drop significantly more
• No savings: Don't refi. Pay off early with that"payment difference" instead

Rate Reduction: How Much Savings Are We Talking?

The size of rate reduction determines the magnitude of savings.

Monthly Savings Per Rate Point:
Every 1% rate reduction saves approximately $200/month per $100,000 borrowed (varies by remaining term)

Examples on a $300,000 mortgage:

• 7.5% → 7.0% (0.5% reduction): ~$300/month savings
• 7.5% → 6.5% (1.0% reduction): ~$600/month savings
• 7.5% → 5.5% (2.0% reduction): ~$1,200/month savings

This is why refinancing only makes sense if you're getting a meaningful rate reduction. A 0.25% reduction (7.5% → 7.25%) saves only ~$150/month. With $5,000 closing costs, break-even is 33 months. For most people, that's too long.

Rule of Thumb: Refi if you can get 0.5%+ rate reduction

Below 0.5%, closing costs usually don't make economic sense unless you're confident you'll stay 7+ years.

Closing Costs Decoded: What You're Actually Paying

Closing costs are the hidden tax on refinancing. They typically include:

Lender Fees (50% of total costs):
• Origination fee: 0.5-1.5% of loan ($1,500-$4,500 on $300k)
• Processing fee: $500-$1,000
• Underwriting fee: $500-$1,200
• Appraisal fee: $400-$800

Third-Party Fees (35% of total costs):
• Title search and insurance: $500-$1,500
• Escrow/closing costs: $500-$1,500
• Recording and filing: $100-$300
• Survey (if needed): $300-$600

Pre-Paid Items (15% of total costs):
• Property taxes (pro-rata): $500-$2,000
• Insurance (prepaid): $500-$1,500
• HOA fees (if applicable): $0-$2,000

Total Average: 2-6% of loan amount

On a $300,000 refi: $6,000-$18,000 (most commonly $8,000-$10,000)

Negotiating Closing Costs:

You have more power than you think. Tactics:

1. Get 3+ quotes. Costs vary widely. Competition works. Getting a 0.5% lower fee across lenders saves $1,500
2. Ask for fee waivers."Will you waive the processing fee if I commit today?" Many will
3. Negotiate the rate/fee tradeoff."Can I take a slightly higher rate (6.25% instead of 6.2%) in exchange for lower closing costs?" Often yes (called"discount points" or"lender credits")
4. No-closing-cost refi. Some lenders offer this—they roll costs into the loan (higher rate) instead of upfront payment. Only use if break-even would be > 7 years with traditional refi

Strategic: Should You Shorten Your Loan Term (30→15 year)?

Many people who refi also switch from a 30-year to a 15-year mortgage. This is a separate decision from rate reduction.

Example:
Current: $300,000 at 7.5%, 20 years remaining = $2,170/month
Refi Option A: $300,000 at 6.2%, 20 years = $1,960/month (savings: $210/mo)
Refi Option B: $300,000 at 5.9%, 15 years = $2,133/month (savings: $37/mo but paid off 5 years earlier)

Option B looks worse on monthly payment. But let's look at total interest:

Option A (refi to 20yr at 6.2%): Total interest paid = $170,000
Option B (refi to 15yr at 5.9%): Total interest paid = $95,000
Difference: $75,000 saved by shortening term

When 15-year refi makes sense:
• You can afford the higher payment (usually 20-30% higher)
• You're confident in job stability
• You want to own home free-and-clear before retirement
• You have no high-interest debt (credit cards, personal loans)

When 30-year refi makes sense:
• Lower payment is crucial for cash flow
• You have flexible/variable income
• You want funds for other investments (you can invest the difference at > mortgage rate)
• You're older and prefer smaller payment in retirement

Our refinance calculator lets you model both options and see total interest paid.

The Real-World Complications

Issue 1: Resetting the Loan Clock
If you refi from a 30-year mortgage with 20 years remaining, you can:

• Refi to a new 30-year loan (you pay for 30 more years, total 50 years)
• Refi to a new 20-year loan (keep the original timeline)
• Refi to a new 15-year loan (pay off faster)

Most people accidentally reset to 30 years. This is terrible—you're extending your payoff date by 10 years!

Example: You have 20 years left on your 30-year mortgage. You refi to a new 30-year. You now pay for 30 MORE years, total 50 years. The rate savings are offset by paying 10 extra years of interest.

Always match original remaining term or shorter. If you have 20 years left, refi to 20-year (or 15-year), not 30-year.

Issue 2: PMI Removal
If your current mortgage has PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance, because you put down < 20%), refinancing might remove it if you have 20%+ equity now.

PMI costs: 0.3-1.5% of loan balance annually ($900-$4,500 per year on $300,000)

If removing PMI saves $100/month ($1,200/year), and closing costs are $5,000, break-even is only 4 years—a better deal than pure rate savings.

Check:"Does refinancing allow me to remove PMI?" If yes, add that savings to rate savings in your break-even calculation.

Issue 3: Tax Implications (Mortgage Interest Deduction)
You can deduct mortgage interest on your taxes only if you itemize deductions (standard deduction is $27,700 for married filing jointly in CURRENT_YEAR).

If you're already itemizing and paying $15,000/year in interest, refinancing and lowering your payment reduces that deduction slightly. This is rarely material but worth noting.

Should You Use a Broker or Direct Lender?

Mortgage Broker:
Pros: Can shop rates from 50+ lenders, often competitive pricing
Cons: Charges broker fees (often 1-1.5% of loan), you're paying for shopping convenience
Best for: Non-traditional borrowers, complex situations where shopping power matters

Direct Lender (Bank):
Pros: Direct relationship, sometimes lower fees, streamlined process
Cons: Only your lender's rates, less negotiating power
Best for: Strong credit, conventional loan, want simplicity

My Recommendation: Get quotes from 2-3 direct lenders (Wellsfargo, Chase, etc.) and 1 broker. Compare all-in closing costs, not just rate. 0.1% rate difference is worth $200/month; $1,000 in closing costs isn't.

The Decision Checklist

Refi if YES to all:

☑ Rate reduction is 0.5% or more
☑ Break-even is less than 3 years
☑ You plan to stay in home for 5+ years
☑ You're not near retirement (don't want payment obligations)
☑ You can afford closing costs without borrowing more (or rolling into loan)

Don't refi if YES to any:

☒ Break-even is greater than 5 years
☒ You might move or sell within 3 years
☒ You're extending loan term beyond original payoff date
☒ You have high-interest debt (credit cards) consider pay instead
☒ You're within 5 years of retirement and want to own home free-and-clear

FAQ: Mortgage Refinancing

How long does a refi take?

Typically 30-45 days from application to funded. Appraisals, underwriting, and document review take time. Start early if you want to lock in rates before they move.

Can I refi if I'm underwater (owe more than home is worth)?

Difficult. Most conventional lenders require 20% equity minimum. FHA streamline loans allow refi even with negative equity. Government-backed programs (HARP, HAMP) existed historically for underwater borrowers—check if still available in your state.

Do I need an appraisal for a refi?

Usually yes, though some lenders offer"no-appraisal" refi if you have strong credit and good equity. Appraisal costs $400-$800. It's worth it if it unlocks PMI removal or lower rate.

What credit score do I need?

Conventional refi: 620+ minimum (740+ for best rates). FHA streamline: 580+. VA (if eligible): typically 620+. Every 20-point improvement can save 0.25-0.5% in rate.

Can I refi a second mortgage (HELOC)?

Yes, but it's more expensive. HELOCs typically have higher rates than primary mortgages. Refinancing makes sense if you can get 1%+ reduction and plan to borrow for 5+ years.

⚡ Key Takeaways

  • PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance) costs 0.3-1.5% of your loan balance annually, paid monthly as part of your mortgage payment—it's essentially insurance protecting the lender if you default
  • You can only remove PMI once you have 20% equity in your home; this happens either through paying down the mortgage or home appreciation
  • The break-even calculation for a PMI-removal refi is different: even with minimal rate savings, removing $150/month PMI payment usually beats $5,000 closing costs within 3 years
  • Home price appreciation is your fastest path to 20% equity; if your home appreciated 5%+ since purchase, you likely have enough equity now to refi without PMI
  • Some lenders offer automatic PMI removal at 20% equity, others require you to request it; always request it when you hit the threshold, even if just reaching it

What Is PMI and Why You're Paying It

PMI is a hidden tax on low-down-payment mortgages. If you borrowed 95% of home price (put down only 5%), the lender is taking significant risk. If you default and the lender forecloses, home prices might have dropped and they can't recover their full loan amount.

PMI protects the lender, not you. It's your insurance premium on their risk.

Typical PMI Costs:

Loan amount: $380,000 (80% of $475,000 home)
Down payment: $95,000 (20%)
PMI rate: 0.55% annually (varies by credit score, down payment %)
PMI payment: $209/month ($2,508/year)

Loan amount: $427,500 (90% of $475,000 home)
Down payment: $47,500 (10%)
PMI rate: 0.95% annually
PMI payment: $339/month ($4,068/year)

Over a 30-year mortgage, PMI costs $90,000-$150,000+ depending on your down payment percentage. That's real money.

The PMI Removal Milestone: 20% Equity

PMI automatically disappears when you have 20% equity in your home through principal paydown. On a $475,000 home purchase, 20% equity = $95,000.

Reaching 20% equity happens through:

1. Paying down the mortgage: If you put down 5% initially and pay extra toward principal, you'll reach 20% equity in 7-10 years (depending on mortgage size)
2. Home appreciation: If your home appreciates 5-10% in value, you're suddenly at 20% equity without paying anything
3. Combination: Most common—5 years of payments + 3% home appreciation gets you to 20%

Timeline to PMI Removal (No Appreciation):

Home price: $500,000, down payment 5% ($25,000)
Loan: $475,000 at 7% for 30 years
Payment: $3,155/month (without PMI)
With PMI (0.7%): $3,155 + $277 = $3,432/month

Principal balance after:

• Year 1: $468,000 (paid down $7,000)
• Year 3: $452,000 (paid down $23,000, at 9.4% equity)
• Year 5: $433,000 (paid down $42,000, at 13.4% equity)
• Year 8: $403,000 (paid down $72,000, at 19.4% equity—close!)
• Year 9: $389,000 (paid down $86,000, at 22.2% equity—PMI removable!)

At year 9, you've accumulated $149,300 in PMI payments. If you'd refinanced at year 8 when home appreciated, you'd have removed PMI 1-2 years earlier.

The PMI Removal Refi: Different Math Than Rate Refinancing

A refinance strictly to remove PMI has different math because you're not chasing rate savings—you're eliminating a recurring cost.

Example: PMI Removal Refi

Current loan: $430,000 at 7.0%, 25 years remaining, payment = $3,142
Current PMI: $280/month
Total current payment: $3,422/month

Home value (estimated): $537,500
Equity: $107,500 (20% exactly)
Able to refi without PMI: Yes

New refi: $430,000 at 7.1% (rate slightly higher, but no PMI), new payment = $3,065
New total payment: $3,065 (no PMI!)
Monthly savings: $357

Closing costs: $5,200

Break-even: $5,200 ÷ $357 = 14.6 months

This is a slam dunk refi. Even with a slightly higher rate, removing PMI saves so much that break-even is under 2 years.

Why PMI Removal Refis Are Different:
You don't need a rate reduction to make it pencil out. Even at the same rate (or slightly higher), removing PMI often justifies closing costs within 18 months.

Detecting When You Have 20% Equity (Home Appreciation)

Home prices fluctuate. Maybe your $500,000 home is now worth $535,000 (7% appreciation). Check your equity:

Method 1: Use Online Estimates
Zillow, Redfin, Realtor.com provide free home value estimates. Not appraisal-quality, but useful indicators. If your $500k home shows $540k, you might have 20% equity.

Method 2: Pull Your Recent Appraisal
From mortgage documents or recent HELOC application. If less than 2 years old, reasonably accurate.

Method 3: Get a Professional Appraisal
Costs $400-$800. Worth it if you're close to 20% equity—could unlock PMI removal.

Quick Calculation:
Original home price: $500,000
Original down payment: 5% = $25,000
Original loan: $475,000

Current loan balance: $445,000 (after 2 years of payments)
Current estimated home value: $535,000 (7% appreciation)
Current equity: $90,000
Equity percentage: $90,000 ÷ $535,000 = 16.8% (not yet 20%)

If home appreciated to $545,000:
Equity: $100,000 ÷ $545,000 = 18.3% (still not 20%)

If home appreciated to $555,000:
Equity: $110,000 ÷ $555,000 = 19.8% (almost there!)

If home appreciated to $560,000:
Equity: $115,000 ÷ $560,000 = 20.5% (PMI removable!)

Takeaway: In moderate appreciation markets (2-3%/year), it takes 7-8 years to reach 20% equity from 5% down. In hot markets (5%+ appreciation), it can happen in 3-4 years.

Comparing Three Paths to PMI Removal

Path 1: Wait and Pay PMI Until 20% Equity Through Principal
Loan: $475,000
PMI: $280/month
Time to 20% equity: 9 years
Total PMI paid: $30,240
Pros: No upfront costs
Cons: Pay years of PMI unnecessarily

Path 2: Make Extra Principal Payments to Reach 20% Equity
Loan: $475,000
Extra payment: $400/month toward principal
Time to 20% equity: 5 years
Total PMI paid: $16,800
Extra principal paid: $24,000
Total cost: $40,800
Pros: Reach 20% equity faster
Cons: Requires discipline on extra payments; $40,800 total out of pocket

Path 3: Refinance Now (if Home Appreciated to 20% Equity)
Loan: $430,000 (current balance)
Refi rate: 7.1% (slightly higher, no PMI)
Closing costs: $5,200
PMI removal: Immediate
Time to 20% equity: 0 years (already there)
Total PMI paid: $0 (after refi)
Total cost: $5,200
Pros: Stop PMI immediately; only cost is refi fees
Cons: Requires 20% equity already (through appreciation or principal payment)

The winner: Path 3 by far, if you have 20% equity. If you don't have 20% equity yet, do Path 2 (extra principal) instead of Path 1 (waiting).

A Warning: The PMI Trap

Some mortgages have automatic PMI removal at 20% equity. Others require you to request removal manually. If your loan requires manual request, you may want to act.

Banks have no incentive to remove PMI for you—it's profitable. You could reach 20% equity and keep paying PMI for years if you don't request removal.

What to do:

Every 6 months, estimate your home value and calculate equity percentage. When you reach 20%:

1. Contact your lender:"I believe I've reached 20% equity. Please remove my PMI."
2. They may require an appraisal (your cost, ~$400) or accept a BPO (broker price opinion, ~$100)
3. If they won't remove it, consider refinancing with a lender that will

Worst case: You're 1-2 years past 20% equity and still paying PMI. That's costing you $280-$400/month unnecessarily. Refi immediately to cut your loss.

FAQ: PMI Removal and Refinancing

Can I remove PMI without refinancing?

Yes, if you've reached 20% equity and your lender allows it. Conventional loans typically allow PMI removal at 20%. FHA loans require 22% equity and are harder to remove. Ask your lender about automatic removal date.

What if I refinanced into a 15-year mortgage? Does PMI still apply?

PMI applies to any loan with less than 20% down, regardless of term. A 15-year refi still requires 20% equity to remove PMI (it's not paid off faster, just paid at higher monthly rates).

Can I estimate my home value without an appraisal?

Yes. Zillow/Redfin estimates are ±5% accurate. For refinancing, lenders will order an appraisal anyway (~$400), so use online estimates as a guide only.

Is it worth paying extra principal specifically to remove PMI?

Yes, if you're close (say, 18% equity and 2 years away from 20%). An extra $200/month gets you there 1 year faster, removing $3,360/year in PMI. Cost-benefit is clear.

What if my home value dropped? Can I still remove PMI?

Not through appreciation. You'd need to pay down to 20% equity through principal payments. Refinancing also becomes harder if you're underwater or below 20% equity (lenders won't touch it).

⚡ Key Takeaways

  • A 15-year mortgage typically costs 0.5-0.75% less in interest rate than a 30-year mortgage (e.g., 7.0% for 30-year vs 6.5% for 15-year), making the monthly payment difference smaller than you'd expect
  • On a $300,000 loan at 7% for 30 years ($1,996/month), the same loan for 15 years at 6.5% costs $2,345/month—only 17% more, but you pay off 15 years earlier
  • Total interest paid: 30-year = $418,000 (over 30 years), 15-year = $121,000 (over 15 years). The 15-year mortgage saves $297,000 in interest by paying $349 more per month
  • A 30-year mortgage is mathematically superior if you can invest the"payment difference" at returns higher than your mortgage rate; if mortgage is 7% and you invest difference at 10% returns, 30-year wins
  • Psychologically, 15-year mortgages force discipline and guarantee home ownership by retirement; 30-year mortgages preserve flexibility for other financial priorities

The Math: 30-Year vs 15-Year Side-by-Side

Scenario: $300,000 loan amount

30-Year Mortgage at 7.0%:
Monthly payment: $1,996
Total payments: 360
Total amount paid: $718,800
Total interest: $418,800
Home paid off by: Age 65 (if purchased at age 35)

15-Year Mortgage at 6.5%:
Monthly payment: $2,345
Total payments: 180
Total amount paid: $421,800
Total interest: $121,800
Home paid off by: Age 50 (if purchased at age 35)

The Comparison:
Monthly difference: $2,345 - $1,996 = $349 more/month for 15-year
Interest savings: $418,800 - $121,800 = $297,000
Time to payoff difference: 15 years sooner with 15-year mortgage

If you can afford the extra $349/month, the 15-year mortgage saves nearly $300,000.

The Opportunity Cost Argument: When 30-Year Wins

Here's where it gets interesting: the 30-year mortgage wins if you can invest the $349 monthly difference at returns higher than your mortgage rate.

The Math:

Take the $349/month payment difference. Invest it at market returns (~8-10% historical stock market average).

15-year: Pay off home at year 15 with $0 remaining debt. Equity: $300,000 (100% owned).
Then save the full $2,345/month for next 15 years = $423,000

30-year: At year 15, still owe ~$225,000 on mortgage. But invested $349/month at 8% = $81,000.
Total wealth at year 15: $300,000 (home equity) + $81,000 (investments) - $225,000 (remaining mortgage) = $156,000

Wait, that sounds bad for 30-year. Let's look at year 30:

15-year: $300,000 home + $423,000 invested = $723,000
30-year: $300,000 home (paid off) + $81,000 (from first 15 years) + $347/month × 15 years invested at 8% = $81,000 + $117,000 = $198,000
Total: $300,000 + $198,000 = $498,000

The 15-year mortgage results in more wealth. But wait—in the 30-year scenario, consider have invested the full $2,345, not just $349 difference. This is where it gets complex.

The Real Argument:
If you're disciplined enough to invest $349/month and earn 8%+ returns, 30-year is mathematically optimal. But most people aren't disciplined. They"find" the extra $349 and spend it. In that case, 15-year forces savings through the mortgage payment itself.

Which Is Better for You? The Decision Matrix

Choose 15-Year Mortgage If:

☑ You want to own home free-and-clear before retirement (age 65)
☑ You value certainty over flexibility
☑ Your income is stable and you don't anticipate job changes
☑ You lack discipline to invest lump-sum savings
☑ You're confident rates won't rise dramatically (refinancing risk is lower)
☑ You want to build wealth aggressively through forced savings
☑ You're age 45+ (consider avoid new 30-year debt at this point)

Choose 30-Year Mortgage If:

☑ You want maximum monthly cash flow flexibility
☑ You're just starting your career (income may grow, justifying the larger payment later)
☑ You have variable or irregular income
☑ You want to invest aggressively (stock market, business, side ventures)
☑ You're young enough to afford payments in retirement (age 30-40)
☑ You expect significant raises that will make payments smaller relative to future income
☑ You want to preserve capital for other investments/opportunities

The Psychology: Forced Savings vs Flexibility

Beyond pure math, there's a behavioral component:

15-Year Psychology:
Advantage: You can't undiscipline yourself. The $2,345 payment forces saving and debt payoff.
Disadvantage: Inflexible. Job loss or emergency hits harder when committed to high payment.

30-Year Psychology:
Advantage: Flexibility. Lower payment = easier to absorb income disruptions.
Disadvantage: Temptation to spend the difference instead of investing. Most people do.

Studies show people with 15-year mortgages accumulate more wealth by retirement than 30-year borrowers in similar income brackets. Not because math says so, but because 15-year forces discipline.

Age Matters: The Retirement Consideration

If age 25: Either works. 30-year keeps options open. 15-year ensures payoff by 40. 15-year is stronger if you want predictability.

If age 35: 15-year mortgage makes sense. You'll own home by 50 (working years), debt-free in retirement. 30-year means payments into age 65.

If age 45: 15-year is nearly essential. A 30-year mortgage extends until age 75—uncomfortable if retired at 65. You'd be paying on a fixed retirement income.

If age 55+: Avoid 30-year mortgages. Consider own the home before retirement. 10-year mortgages are preferable even if payments are higher.

Rule of Thumb: Loan payoff date should be 5-10 years before expected retirement date.

Refinancing Consideration: The Term Extension Trap

Many people take out 15-year mortgages, then refi into 30-year mortgages when times get tough. This is financially destructive.

Example: You have 10 years left on a 15-year mortgage (original balance $300,000, current balance $150,000). You refi to a new 30-year term at similar rates.

New payment: ~$1,000/month
Payoff date: 30 years from now (age 75 instead of 55)
Total interest: You're essentially extending your debt another 20 years

If stretches your budget the 15-year payment, don't take it out. Be honest about cash flow capacity. It's better to take a 30-year and overpay (turning it into a faster payoff) than take a 15-year and struggle.

The Hybrid Option: 30-Year with Extra Payments

Many financial advisors suggest this compromise:

Take a 30-year mortgage (flexibility, lower baseline payment). Then pay extra toward principal whenever possible.

Example: 30-year mortgage with $1,996 payment. Pay $2,345 whenever you can (bonus, tax refund, raise). In years you can't, you can survive on just $1,996.

Result: Payoff date somewhere between 15-30 years, determined by your actual cash flow.

This requires discipline (the bank won't force extra payments on you), but offers flexibility with 15-year-like payoff speed if you succeed.

Pro tip: Set up automatic extra payment to principal (usually available through lender). This removes the temptation to skip it.

Rates: Do 15-Year Mortgages Actually Cost Less?

15-year mortgages typically have rates 0.5-0.75% lower than 30-year (not the full difference you'd expect, but a real advantage).

Today's rates (illustrative):

• 30-year: 7.0%
• 15-year: 6.5%

Why the difference?
Lender risk: 30-year has more time for borrower to default, so higher rate
Loan duration: Longer loans are riskier in inflationary environments
Prepayment risk: Borrowers with 15-years are more likely to refinance if rates drop dramatically

This rate advantage (0.5-0.75%) is real but limited. It doesn't make 15-year cheaper per se—it just means the payment difference is smaller than mathematically expected.

FAQ: 30-Year vs 15-Year Mortgages

Can I switch from 30-year to 15-year mid-mortgage?

Yes, through refinancing. You'll pay closing costs ($5,000-$10,000) but can refi at any time. Make sure to stay on the original payoff date or shorten it, don't extend it.

What if I take a 30-year but can't make extra payments?

Then you'll pay it off at 30 years. This is fine if you'll own the home free-and-clear before or shortly after retirement. Just don't plan on being debt-free in retirement if you take 30-year at age 50+.

Is 15-year mortgage worth it for a second home / investment property?

Usually no. Investment properties should use 30-year mortgages to preserve flexibility and cash flow. You want tenants' rent to cover payment with margin. Shorter terms reduce that margin.

What's the best mortgage term if I plan to move in 7 years?

Doesn't matter much—you'll pay off the balance regardless. Consider ARM (adjustable-rate mortgage) if rates are expected to decline, or fixed rate if they might rise. The payoff date is irrelevant if you're selling.

Should I make a larger down payment or larger payments on a 30-year?

Depends on rates. If mortgage rate is 7% and you can earn 8%+ in index funds, larger down payment is mathematically inferior (you're giving up returns). If rates are 5% and markets are uncertain, larger down payment provides psychological benefit. Usually, best to make standard 20% down and invest the difference.

Refinance if you can lower rate by 0.5-1%+ AND plan to stay long enough to recoup closing costs. Break-even typically 18-36 months. Refinance makes sense if you stay longer.

Break-even months = Closing Costs ÷ Monthly Savings. If costs $4,000 and save $200/month: 20 months to break even. Plan to stay 20+ months after refinancing.

Refinance closing costs: 2-6% of loan amount or $3,000-$10,000. Include appraisal, lender fees, title, recording. Some lenders offer "no-closing-cost" refi at higher rate.

If payment is affordable, 15-year saves massive interest (often $100K+) and builds equity faster. Requires 15-20% higher monthly payment. Powerful if cash flow allows.

Conventional refi: 620+ (740+ for best rates). FHA streamline: 580+. VA: typically 620+. Every 20 points of credit score improvement can save 0.25-0.5% in rate.

The traditional rule is 1% lower, but modern analysis shows 0.5-0.75% can be worthwhile depending on your loan balance and planned ownership duration. Calculate the break-even point by dividing closing costs by your monthly payment savings.

Break-even equals total closing costs divided by monthly payment savings. If closing costs are $4,500 and you save $150 per month, break-even is 30 months. Only refinance if you plan to stay in the home past the break-even point.

Typical refinancing costs are 2-5% of the loan amount, including appraisal at $300-$500, origination fees of 0.5-1.5%, title insurance, and recording fees. On a $300,000 loan, expect $6,000-$15,000 in total closing costs.

A 15-year mortgage has higher payments but saves dramatically on total interest. Refinancing a $300,000 balance from 30-year at 7% to 15-year at 6.5% saves over $200,000 in interest despite the higher monthly payment amount.

Yes, but you may likely need PMI on the new loan if equity is below 20%. FHA streamline refinance requires minimal equity. Some programs like VA IRRRL allow refinancing without an appraisal. Higher LTV ratios may mean higher interest rates.

Monthly savings = Current payment - New payment. Break-even months = Closing costs / Monthly savings. Total savings = (Monthly savings × remaining months) - Closing costs.

Published byJere Salmisto· Founder, CalcFiReviewed byCalcFi EditorialEditorial standardsMethodologyLast updated May 31, 2026

Primary sources & authoritative references

Every formula on this page traces to a federal agency, central bank, or peer-reviewed institution. We cite the rule-makers, not secondhand blogs.

  • CFPB — Refinancing your home loan — Consumer Financial Protection BureauFederal guide to break-even analysis and closing-cost impact. (opens in new tab)
  • FRED — 30-Year Fixed Rate Mortgage Average in the United States — Federal Reserve Bank of St. LouisWeekly rate series for before/after refi comparison. (opens in new tab)
  • FHFA — House Price Index (HPI) — Federal Housing Finance AgencyHome value data relevant to LTV threshold in refi eligibility. (opens in new tab)
  • IRS Publication 936 — Home Mortgage Interest Deduction (refi rules) — Internal Revenue ServiceDeductibility treatment of refinanced acquisition vs home-equity debt. (opens in new tab)
  • Freddie Mac Primary Mortgage Market Survey (PMMS) — Federal Home Loan Mortgage CorporationWeekly average 30/15-year rates and points used for refi comparisons. (opens in new tab)
  • CFPB — Prepayment penalties on mortgages — Consumer Financial Protection BureauPrepayment penalty rules that can erode refi savings. (opens in new tab)

Found an error in a formula or source? Report it →

Current balance
$275,000
Current rate
4.5%
Current P&I (20-yr remaining)
$1,738/mo
New rate
6.30% (30-yr reset)
New P&I
$1,702/mo
Closing costs
$5,500

Result: Do not refinance — lower payment is an illusion from term reset; total interest rises $100k+

Stretching 20 remaining years back to 30 at a higher rate creates a lower monthly payment but pays $100k+ more interest over the life. Only refinance when the new rate is ≥0.75% below current AND you can hold the loan past break-even (closing cost ÷ monthly savings).

Primary home value
$500,000
Current mortgage balance
$200,000
Cash-out refi to 70% LTV
$350,000 new loan
Cash to investor
$150,000
New rate
6.55% (0.25% higher for cash-out)
New P&I
$2,224/mo

Result: Extracts $150k at 6.55% — deploy to rental yielding 7%+ cap rate for positive arbitrage

Cash-out refis price 0.25–0.50% higher than rate-term refis. Breakeven for the rental purchase requires post-tax rental yield > post-tax mortgage cost. Texas property tax drag (1.80%) means rentals need 8%+ gross cap rate to pencil. Conservative investors avoid cash-out when extract-rate > target-investment-yield.

Current FHA balance
$240,000
Current FHA rate
5.0%
Current MIP
0.55% annually ($110/mo)
Home value
$320,000
LTV at refi
75%
New conventional rate
6.30%

Result: Rate rises but eliminating $110/mo MIP produces net savings — worth it if holding 3+ years

FHA MIP sticks for the life of the loan (for FHA loans originated post-2013 with <10% down). Refinancing to conventional once LTV drops below 80% removes the insurance. Even at a higher rate, eliminating $110/mo MIP often saves money net when held 3+ years. Run the full calc.

Current balance
$1,200,000
Current rate (2023)
6.75%
New rate (2026)
6.05%
Rate drop
0.70%
Closing costs
$12,000
New P&I (30-yr)
$7,226/mo vs $7,782/mo — $556/mo savings

Result: Break-even in 22 months — worthwhile if holding 3+ more years

Jumbo loans (over $806,500 in 2026 high-cost areas) have smaller rate spreads but larger dollar savings per basis point because of loan size. A 0.70% drop on $1.2M = $8,400/yr. High-balance borrowers refi more often because the dollar math clears closing costs faster.

Resetting a 20-year-remaining loan back to 30 years almost always reduces payment — but adds tens of thousands in interest. Keep the remaining term or shorter.

Impact: Refinancing a $275k, 20-remaining-year loan into a new 30-year can add $100k+ in lifetime interest.

Break-even = closing costs ÷ monthly savings. If break-even is 36 months but you're moving in 24, refi is a money-loser. Always model holding period vs break-even.

Impact: A $6,000 refi costing $150/mo savings needs 40 months to pay back — leave in year 3 = $1,800 lost.

"No-cost" refis add closing fees to principal or take a rate bump (typically +0.25%). Over 30 years, rolled costs can more than double. Pay cash at closing if cash flow allows.

Impact: $6,000 rolled into loan at 6.3% for 30 years costs $13,400 in total payments.

Converting 3% mortgage + 22% credit card into 6.5% refi may feel like savings but loses the cheap 3% rate forever. A HELOC or HELOAN preserves the first-mortgage rate.

Impact: A borrower with $250k at 3% + $30k CC at 22% who refis to $280k at 6.5% pays $230k more interest over 30 years vs keeping the first mortgage.

Rate shopping saves the median refi borrower $1,500+ per CFPB research. Refis are competitive — 3+ lender quotes within 14 days count as a single credit inquiry.

Impact: A 0.125% rate difference on a $400k 30-yr refi = $10,500 over life.

Refinance Calculator — Is It Worth Refinancing Your Mortgage? by State

State-specific rates, taxes, and cost-of-living adjustments

CaliforniaTexasFloridaNew YorkIllinoisPennsylvaniaOhioGeorgiaNorth CarolinaMichiganNew JerseyVirginia

Calculations are for educational purposes only. Consult a qualified financial advisor for personalized advice.